With grass camp sites and lush vegetation, Guma Camp was balm on the skin after the dryness of the desert. Located in northern Botswana and part of the Okavango Delta, the lagoon that gives the camp its name had greens that startled your eyeballs and water vistas to soothe them afterwards. Guma was partly a work spot, but we managed to fit in night and day boat trips to look for night creatures and birds. Star attractions were: Malachite Kingfishers, darting like azure streaks across the backwaters and reluctant subjects for photos; confident African Fishing Eagles, posing among the palms and wheeling languidly across the sky; and baby crocs scooped from the water and rough to the touch, or draped over low lying branches and with watchful yellow eyes.