There had been plenty of lion tracks around the campground at Kaa during our 4-day stay, with large paw marks in the sandy surface revealing their overnight presence. For the most part we had stuck close to Clancy, hugging the vehicle and using every last one of our brightest torches to light up our camp at night. This makes for a different camping experience, eating inside despite the heat and keeping an eye out for each other when we took our last evening ‘relief’ before bedding down. On our last morning, we made the effort to rise early to drive to the waterhole in the hope that we might see a lion or two before heading north. With the barest hint that dawn was on its way, we drove slowly down the track, pausing when two large heads with shaggy manes appeared low to the ground on either side of the track. Unmoving and watching our progress they were briefly reminiscent of the statues of majestic animals that are incongruously placed at the gateway to some stately manor house. These however were live ‘gateposts’ whose features gradually became clearer as our eyes adjusted and the level of light slowly increased. It was like they were patiently waiting … had they been waiting? They were not fazed in the slightest as we sat watching them from the car for about an hour, whispering about the amazingness of them while they initially looked our way then turned their gaze to some distant sound. They know they have nothing to fear, and they just sat on their powerful haunches until the younger male decided it was time to move, had a passing mock wrestle with the older male, sprayed his scent around and then strolled nonchalantly towards the waterhole. Side by side they lapped up water, sending small waves across the surface until their thirst was satiated and they were ready to move off: long but unhurried strides that move them quickly across the landscape; large, padded front paws turned endearingly inwards as they are lifted from the ground; and their rear end and tail swaying slightly from side to side. At the top of a rise, two cubs came out to nuzzle and greet the first male. We followed some distance behind, eventually realising that the initial two males were part of a group of seven. Another hour or so passed easily, while we watched them nuzzling, grooming, snoozing and sending us fixed, fathomless and slightly unnerving stares … which one of us looked more tempting?