When I walked the iconic Camino Frances in October 2016, I heard about some of the other pilgrim routes in Europe, including many in Britain and one across North Wales. As much as I had enjoyed my Spanish jaunt, it seemed like a lovely idea to follow a ‘way’ in my homeland. My sister, Lee, didn’t take much convincing and today we set off on the first leg: Basingwerk Abbey (a 12^th century Cistercian abbey) to Trelawnyd (a small town … with a pub). Climbing above Holywell, there were fabulous views of the Dee Estuary, which accompanied us for most of the day. In contrast to Spain, where the way was on gravel tracks stretching towards an endless horizon, the Welsh version is across dense, lumpy but verdant green pasture interrupted by fence lines and the ubiquitous wooden style. But verdant green pastures exist because of changeable Welsh weather. And, whilst sunlight played over the immense sandbanks of the Dee and the sea views stretched to Cumbria, on land the dark, heavy and water-burdened clouds released their load on the walkers below. Maes Achwyfan, a wheel-headed cross dated to 1000CE, should be able to teach us a thing or two about survival in this wetness but even this ancient monument was moss-hued and its Celtic and Viking carvings were softening and submitting to the climate. A cider at day’s end provided restorative energy and tomorrow the clouds may be exhausted, though I know the forecast says otherwise!