Enroute from Puente la Reina, I passed through Zirauki, which is typical of many of the villages that I’ve passed through so far: picturesque, very tidy and seemingly properous in that the houses looked well-maintained for their age. A chat with a Spanish pelegrino revealed her surprise at this prosperity with southern parts of Spain generally poorer and less able to keep the same tidiness. She suggested that Navarra, the region I am currently passing through, has good farmland, other natural resources, less corruption and better organisation but she was interested to check this further. For me, the chunky clay soils with numerous rocks and smallish fields on sloping land did not constitute ‘good’ but there have been large stacks of hay scattered throughout the rolling countryside. So maybe a pelegrinos eyes have been deceived? After my arrival in Estella I was able fit in some time to do a little sketching of the museum. The early evening period is generally quiet but a guitarist played softly outside his house and the street cleaner paused in his collection of litter to join him with some lovely guttural and passionate Spanish singing. So, so pleasant.