My last night with Greg and Clancy was spent enjoying the riverfront vista from the decking of the Royal Livingstone Hotel. We didn’t go for the colonial experience, but rather for the view of the 2km wide, eddying and iconic Zambezi River before its inexorable tumble over the Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls). Also called ‘the smoke that thunders’, the fall’s presence was indicated by gentle puffs of mist and little of the thunder that comes when the river is several metres higher during the winter period. From here Greg drove back to J’burg and I headed to Tanzania for a week’s work.