There are plenty of lovely waterside lodges scattered along the banks of southern Africa’s mighty rivers. Most upmarket lodges are unlikely, however, to provide campgrounds for travellers such as us, and when they do it’s often not by the river. So we were lucky to get a riverside spot at Nunda, which overlooked the Kavango River south of Divundu and came with a small handwritten warning about crocs and hippos. True to the sign, we had several night-time visitations from a youngish hippo. But while he/she was slightly spooked at one stage by our inquisitive torches, it kept about 10m away and mainly quietly munched on grass and emitted the occasional hippo grunt. Hippo noises filled the night and tourist boats battled the Kavango’s current by day. The locals deftly manouevered their solid wooden mokoros back and forth in a quest for fish or expertly ferried tourists along the river’s edge. Nunda’s pool and surrounds provided an opportunity to cool off and shady tables for the office worker. Though bird baths dotted around the gardens were somewhat distracting. You may just be able to make out the thatched roof of the restaurant and bar, with another photo showing the timber interior and typical open plan style to make the most of the river views. An upturned mokoro made a great bar table where you could watch the river roll by.