It’s all wild camping in Mudumu, with no amenities but generously spaced sites so you are virtually on your own … with the wildlife. We spent a very pleasant 5 days at Camp 4, taking time to choose our camping spot to maximise the water view while keeping clear of any of the well-used tracks down to the water’s edge. The lagoon spread around us like an open air stage: elephants, roan antelope and kudu enter and exit stage right on a wide sandy bank that dips steeply down to the water; baboons run round the camp, surprisingly cautious and keeping wary eyes on us as they move swiftly to the large tree stage left; various birds, including a pair of fishing eagles, jacanas and open-billed storks, make short and occasional appearances; warthogs wander in for a mud bath; and always there is a hippo basking in the water and commanding centre stage. From each sun up to the colourful sun downs, familiar and unfamiliar noises alerted us to some unfolding new scene. Frogs led the calls into the night, followed by the grunts, wa-hoos and quarrelling of baboons, deep rumbles from elephants, very occasional late-night calls from distant lions, unidentified howls from unidentified animals, and calls from nocturnal birds eventually giving way to the dawn chorus. Mudumu National Park … book if you can and camp if you dare. You won’t be disappointed.